
The Kalash tribe is said to descend from Alexander the Great’s army, but now it is fighting to preserve its traditions in a Taliban stronghold I am standing on a roof in the mountains of the Kalash valleys. Below me hundreds of men are screaming and shouting as two small wooden balls are hit up the slopes by opposing teams of players. Women in intricately designed, brightly coloured dresses are looking on, talking and laughing. One player draws back his long wooden club and hammers the ball onward. Cries of joy fill the air. “What just happened?” I ask the player. “We cheated,” he laughs. “The ball was lost in the snow so I took a