Despite an iffy reputation, double-breasted jackets are mounting a comeback, so take a tip from David Beckham and Prince Charles ]Posh boys guffawing at boating events, overweight scruffy politicians, nightclub bouncers and pinstriped bankers power-dressing in the 1980s: the double-breasted suit was always going to have its work cut out to stage a revival. But there are growing signs that the jacket style is quietly making its way back into fashion. The double-breasted jacket has an unlikely pair of celebrity ambassadors in Prince Charles and David Beckham. Charles, who has long favoured the look , has recently been parading around Morocco in one. Beckham, undoubtedly the most sartorially scrutinised male celebrity in the world, has also been photographed several times this year wearing double-breasted suits. In February, to attend a fashion week party in London, he sported a well-cut grey pinstripe six-button DB , styled with pocket-square, white shirt and tie. On red carpets in Hollywood, leading men have been early adopters: Jake Gyllenhaal wore a black Ferragamo tux for the Oscars while Ryan Gosling opted for a grey Gucci DB suit for a premiere. Experimenting with a DB a year ago, I felt like a quiz show host who had borrowed Joan Collins’s shoulder pads. But it was the catwalk, where the look has slowly been gaining visibility since 2008, that convinced me to try the look again – specifically the autumn/winter 2011 Lanvin show , where sleekly tailored DB jackets were shown with both lean and wide trousers. Jeremy Langmead, editor-in-chief of Mr Porter , warns that the DB is not a forgiving look, but the new crop of jackets are much improved from bulky 80s styles. “Fashion designers have made everything slimmer,” he says. “The jackets are cut shorter and that makes it feel younger and fresher. It really is all about the cut with a DB.” Stacey Smith, menswear buyer at Matches , advises: “The jacket should skim the body, not hug it. And to make sure the silhouette looks modern, the shoulders should be soft and tailored – not too sharp.” High-street design teams are tweaking the fit for a new generation. “To avoid the dad’s tuxedo connotation,” says John Mooney, head of menswear design at Asos , “we simplified the cut and used a single fastening to keep it
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Independent inquiry concludes that the production of biofuels to meet UK and European directives violates human rights and damages the environment The legal requirement to put biofuels in petrol and diesel sold in the UK and Europe is unethical because their production violates human rights and damages the environment, a major new inquiry has concluded. “Biofuels are one of the only renewable alternatives we have for transport fuels, but current policies and targets that encourage their uptake have backfired badly,” said Prof Joyce Tait, at Edinburgh University, who chaired the 18-month inquiry by the independent Nuffield Council on Bioethics (NCB). “The rapid expansion of biofuels production in the developing world has led to problems such as deforestation and the displacement of indigenous people.” The need to meet rising biofuel targets has also led to exploitation of workers, the loss of wildlife and higher food prices, the inquiry found. Under the European Union’s renewable energy directive , 10% of transport fuel must come from renewable sources such as biofuel by 2020. Alena Buyx, assistant director at the NCB, said: “If you look at food prices and they go up and incomes do not, then more people will probably die from hunger, and biofuels are one contributing factor to those price rises.” Biofuels also contribute to poor harvests, commodity speculation and high oil prices which raise the cost of fertilisers and transport, she added. “But doing nothing is also immoral,” said Prof Ottoline Leyserof Cambridge University, and another member of the NBC working party. There is a clear need to replace liquid fossil fuels to limit climate change and if a new biofuel technology meets ethical conditions, there is a duty to develop it, she said. The main transport biofuels that are currently used – bioethanol, made from maize and sugar cane, and biodiesel, made from palm and rape seed oil – both come from food crops and can have substantial ethical problems, the inquiry concluded. But future generations of biofuel, made from agricultural waste such as straw, fast-growing perennials such as willow or miscanthus grass , or even algae grown in tanks , could avoid many of the problems by not competing directly with food . “These are very exciting technologies,” said Leyser. “The potential is huge.” In the UK, 5% of transport fuel must come from renewable sources by 2013. Today, 3% of the UK’s petrol and diesel comes from biofuel, mostly produced in Argentina, Brazil and other European countries. But in January, it was revealed that two-thirds of the biofuel being used in the UK today failed to meet environmental standards . Government cuts to the budget of the Carbon Trust also saw a flagship algal biofuels project cancelled . The Department of Transport is currently consulting on changes to the UK’s biofuels regulations . Transport minister Norman Baker said: “It has already been agreed that no biofuel will count towards European renewable energy targets unless it meets certain sustainability requirements. But we are pushing the European commission to go further. Be in no doubt, we consider the sustainability of biofuels to be paramount.” An international certification scheme, like the Fairtrade scheme for food, must be introduced, the NCB inquiry concluded. It would guarantee that the production of biofuels met the five ethical conditions identified by the NCB: observing human rights, environmentally sustainable, reduced carbon emissions, fairly traded and equitably distributed cost and benefits. Targets for biofuels had driven a rapid expansion, in parts of the world with lower ethical standards, the researchers said. They cited the destruction of rainforest in Malaysia to produce palm oil, forcing people off their land and endangering orangutans, and a 2008 report by Amnesty International which found conditions near slavery for workers in some sugarcane plantations . “We should slow down [the targets] if it is not possible to meet ethical standards,” said Buyx. “But we think it is possible to do that [meet such standards] if enough pressure is applied.” The inquiry found positive examples too, such as small-scale biofuels initiatives that provide energy, income and livelihoods in fuel-poor areas, such as in rural Mali. Existing certification schemes, such as that run by the Roundtable on Sustainable Biofuels were a good start, the researchers said, but remained entirely voluntary. There was also problem of responsible biofuel producers having to conform to many different standards. At present, said Buyx: “the EU says each member country should make their own voluntary scheme – that is madness.” Tait added: “An international certification scheme will not add to red tape, it will simplify it with one overarching standard.” Biofuels Energy Renewable energy Travel and transport Transport policy Transport Europe Damian Carrington guardian.co.uk
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John Cave appointed deputy mayor of Padiham, on edge of Burnley, and is likely to step up to mayor in a year’s time The British National party expects to see one of its members become mayor of a Lancashire town close to the scene of serious street violence a decade ago. John Cave, whose wife, Sharon Wilkinson, is a BNP county councillor for the small former mill town of Padiham, on the edge of Burnley, is likely to take over the office in a year’s time after being chosen as deputy mayor this week. The council has only parish status but Padiham retains the title of town and uses traditional civic regalia and the town hall to assert as much independence as it can against Burnley borough council. Cave joined the town council a year ago and a minority of fellow members had bridled at his bid for office. Cave said his role was non-political and the council was “about Padiham and not politics”. He said others had raised no objections and had supported him for the deputy mayor’s job as an out-and-out Padiham man. “This is my home town and I was born here. It is all about Padiham and Padiham is not about politics. “I will be raising money for charities – but they have to be in Padiham. For me Padiham is home and I think it could be a lot better. Keeping our town hall alive is one of the biggest jobs we’ve got.” The council bats single-mindedly for Padiham, a cluster of dark stone Pennine houses in a steep valley with the National Trust’s Gawthorpe Hall a famous link with the Bronte family, whose wealthy Liberal friends the Kay-Shuttleworths ran their cotton empire from the town. The hall houses Britain’s largest textile collection outside the Victoria and Albert Museum. Community relations have been strained by the BNP’s inroads, but the town council events have included a Balti evening at a British Asian restaurant, along with Remembrance Day celebrations and a Hallowe’en party. The bishop of Burnley, the Rt Rev John Goddard, challenged Cave to give up his BNP associations in order to carry out his civic duties properly. He said: “It will be interesting to see if he acts in the best traditions of a mayor in the community, and I pray he does, as he will have to reject the philosophy of the BNP. “If he retains the BNP political philosophy then how can he expect to serve and represent the whole of the community?” BNP Martin Wainwright guardian.co.uk
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John Cave appointed deputy mayor of Padiham, on edge of Burnley, and is likely to step up to mayor in a year’s time The British National party expects to see one of its members become mayor of a Lancashire town close to the scene of serious street violence a decade ago. John Cave, whose wife, Sharon Wilkinson, is a BNP county councillor for the small former mill town of Padiham, on the edge of Burnley, is likely to take over the office in a year’s time after being chosen as deputy mayor this week. The council has only parish status but Padiham retains the title of town and uses traditional civic regalia and the town hall to assert as much independence as it can against Burnley borough council. Cave joined the town council a year ago and a minority of fellow members had bridled at his bid for office. Cave said his role was non-political and the council was “about Padiham and not politics”. He said others had raised no objections and had supported him for the deputy mayor’s job as an out-and-out Padiham man. “This is my home town and I was born here. It is all about Padiham and Padiham is not about politics. “I will be raising money for charities – but they have to be in Padiham. For me Padiham is home and I think it could be a lot better. Keeping our town hall alive is one of the biggest jobs we’ve got.” The council bats single-mindedly for Padiham, a cluster of dark stone Pennine houses in a steep valley with the National Trust’s Gawthorpe Hall a famous link with the Bronte family, whose wealthy Liberal friends the Kay-Shuttleworths ran their cotton empire from the town. The hall houses Britain’s largest textile collection outside the Victoria and Albert Museum. Community relations have been strained by the BNP’s inroads, but the town council events have included a Balti evening at a British Asian restaurant, along with Remembrance Day celebrations and a Hallowe’en party. The bishop of Burnley, the Rt Rev John Goddard, challenged Cave to give up his BNP associations in order to carry out his civic duties properly. He said: “It will be interesting to see if he acts in the best traditions of a mayor in the community, and I pray he does, as he will have to reject the philosophy of the BNP. “If he retains the BNP political philosophy then how can he expect to serve and represent the whole of the community?” BNP Martin Wainwright guardian.co.uk
Continue reading …John Cave appointed deputy mayor of Padiham, on edge of Burnley, and is likely to step up to mayor in a year’s time The British National party expects to see one of its members become mayor of a Lancashire town close to the scene of serious street violence a decade ago. John Cave, whose wife, Sharon Wilkinson, is a BNP county councillor for the small former mill town of Padiham, on the edge of Burnley, is likely to take over the office in a year’s time after being chosen as deputy mayor this week. The council has only parish status but Padiham retains the title of town and uses traditional civic regalia and the town hall to assert as much independence as it can against Burnley borough council. Cave joined the town council a year ago and a minority of fellow members had bridled at his bid for office. Cave said his role was non-political and the council was “about Padiham and not politics”. He said others had raised no objections and had supported him for the deputy mayor’s job as an out-and-out Padiham man. “This is my home town and I was born here. It is all about Padiham and Padiham is not about politics. “I will be raising money for charities – but they have to be in Padiham. For me Padiham is home and I think it could be a lot better. Keeping our town hall alive is one of the biggest jobs we’ve got.” The council bats single-mindedly for Padiham, a cluster of dark stone Pennine houses in a steep valley with the National Trust’s Gawthorpe Hall a famous link with the Bronte family, whose wealthy Liberal friends the Kay-Shuttleworths ran their cotton empire from the town. The hall houses Britain’s largest textile collection outside the Victoria and Albert Museum. Community relations have been strained by the BNP’s inroads, but the town council events have included a Balti evening at a British Asian restaurant, along with Remembrance Day celebrations and a Hallowe’en party. The bishop of Burnley, the Rt Rev John Goddard, challenged Cave to give up his BNP associations in order to carry out his civic duties properly. He said: “It will be interesting to see if he acts in the best traditions of a mayor in the community, and I pray he does, as he will have to reject the philosophy of the BNP. “If he retains the BNP political philosophy then how can he expect to serve and represent the whole of the community?” BNP Martin Wainwright guardian.co.uk
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A 19-year-old man who is among the detained confessed to killing more than 200 people, President Felipe Calderon said Mexican investigators have found a total of 116 bodies in pits near the US border, 28 more than previously reported, Attorney General Marisela Morales said. Morales said a total of 17 suspects tied to the brutal Zetas drug gang have been detained in relation to the killings in the northern state of Tamaulipas, some of whom have purportedly confessed to abducting passengers from buses and killing them. President Felipe Calderon said a 19-year-old man who is among the detained confessed to killing more than 200 people. Calderon gave no other details. Interior Secretary Francisco Blake Mora pledged to step up the presence of troops and federal police in the area where the killings occurred and not leave the area until the killers and drug gang members there have been caught. “Organised crime, in its desperation, resorts to committing atrocities that we can’t and shouldn’t tolerate as a government and as a society,” Blake said. The graves were found earlier this month in the township of San Fernando, the same area of Tamaulipas where investigators found the bodies of 72 migrants massacred by suspected drug cartel gunmen last August. Most of the 72 migrants were Central Americans, who frequently travel through the area to reach the United States. Police say witnesses in the latest killing case have told them that gunmen pulled the victims, mostly young men, off passenger buses traveling through the San Fernando area in late March. Authorities blame the abductions on the Zetas drug gang, the same group accused in the migrant killings. The motive for the bus abductions remains unclear, though prosecutors have suggested the gang may have been forcefully recruiting people to work for it. San Fernando is a town about 90 miles south of Brownsville, Texas, on a well-traveled stretch of highway that runs near the Gulf Coast. It is an area regularly patrolled by the Mexican military. The Zetas and rival Gulf Cartel are fighting in Tamaulipas over lucrative drug transit routes to the US. Authorities are working to identify the bodies, one of which may belong to a US citizen, through DNA samples and other techniques. One of the bodies is a Guatemalan man, the government of that Central American nation said. The victim has been identified as Feliciano Tagual Ovalle, 44, the Guatemalan Foreign Ministry said in a statement late Monday. The statement did not say whether the man was a migrant passing through or a resident of Mexico. It said the Guatemalan government planned to bring the body home. Mexican authorities confirmed one victim was Guatemalan and said another was a man from central Mexico. Mexican prosecutors had previously said most of the bodies were probably Mexican citizens. Mexico Drugs trade guardian.co.uk
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The sons of former Egyptian president Hosni Mubarak are being questioned over their role in violence against protesters and corruption allegations Egyptian prosecutors have ordered the detention of the former president’s powerful sons to investigate allegations of corruption and the abuse of their authority, Egyptian state television said. The move, the most dramatic in a series of investigations against top regime officials, comes just hours after former President Hosni Mubarak, 82, was hospitalised with heart problems as he too was to be questioned by prosecutors. Gamal Mubarak, his younger son, was a top official in the ruling party and was widely seen as being groomed to succeed his father before 18 days of popular protests brought down the regime on February 11. While the ex-president was in the hospital in the Red Sea resort of Sharm el-Sheikh where he has been living since being removed from power, his sons were taken for questioning to the nearby courthouse by prosecutors from Cairo. An angry crowd of 2,000 people gathered outside and demanded the two be arrested. Then, in the early hours of the morning, the head of provincial security in the South Sinai told the crowd that Gamal and his businessman brother Alaa would be detained. “Brothers, whatever you wanted, you have got … 15 days,” said Major General Mohammed el-Khatib, as the crowd erupted in cheers. As a police van with drawn curtains took away the two brothers, the crowd pelted it with water bottles, stones and their flip-flops, a sign of disrespect in the Arab world. The increasing role of Gamal Mubarak in the government over the last decade and the belief that he might succeed his father helped galvanize Egypt’s protest movement. At least 800 people are estimated to have been killed during the protests as police opened fire on the crowds. Authorities are now investigating government officials for their role in ordering the violence. Gamal is also believed to be the architect of Egypt’s privatisation program and economic liberalisation, which has brought in billions in foreign investment but has also widened the gap between rich and poor. Many of his close associates were billionaires and held top positions in the ruling party and the government. There are allegations that they used their positions for personal gain. Mubarak himself has not been detained, but he was due to be questioned by prosecutors when he was admitted to the Sharm el-Sheikh hospital on Tuesday night complaining of heart problems. In a sign that his ailment might not be very serious, however, Justice Minister Mohammed el-Guindi said he was then questioned in his hospital suite for his role in the violence against protesters. The investigation into corruption charges would be carried out later by the Justice Ministry’s anti-corruption department, he added. The protest movement that deposed Mubarak is now pushing for him to be brought to justice for what they say are decades of abuse. The protesters had criticised the army, which took over the country after the president was pushed out, for being too close to the old regime and not swiftly bringing Mubarak to trial. For four days protesters reoccupied parts of Tahrir Square in downtown Cairo and closed it off to traffic. Efforts by the army to evict them Saturday resulted in at least one death and dozens of injuries and raised tensions between the protesters and the country’s military rulers. The investigations into Mubarak’s sons are expected to mollify the opposition. On Sunday, Mubarak defended himself in a prerecorded message saying he had not abused his authority, and investigators were welcome to check over his assets. It was his first address to the people in the two months since he stepped down. Shortly after, the prosecutor general issued a summons for Mubarak to appear for questioning. Egypt Hosni Mubarak Arab and Middle East unrest guardian.co.uk
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