
Tripe, faggots, hogget… the menu at Manchester’s exceptional Mark Addy is studded with sumptuous meaty treats Stanley Street, Salford, Manchester (0161 832 4080). Meal for two, including wine and service, £75 There is about Robert Owen Brown a touch of the Dickens character; one of those sturdy, reliable ones who turn up a few chapters in when everything is looking bleak for the hero, and hangs about the page looking like a place of safety. He has ginger curls, wears unbuttoned waistcoats, calls men sir and women madam in a way that is entirely unforced, and has a robust response to anything he judges to be total bollocks. Whenever I write about his food I am compelled to mention his refusal to put the words petit pois on the menu. “They’re little peas,” he once told me. “We’re not in France.” Indeed not. We are by a canal in Manchester. I have been directing people to the pub where he now cooks for a while now, but have held off writing about it because of what might be called Owen Brown’s “stamina” issues. He has had a