
With its white tiles and gold trim, Yotam Ottolenghi’s Nopi is like a glitzy bathroom – with fabulous food on tap Nopi, 21-22 Warwick Street, London W1 (020 7494 9584). Meal for two, including wine and service £110 I stared down the long, shiny dining room of Nopi, Yotam Ottolenghi’s new, flash, rather grown-up restaurant, named a little clumsily for its position North Of Piccadilly. All those white splash-back tiles. The glossy marble floors. The gold-trimmed bar and sconces and the coat hooks. It reminded me of my Jewish brethren in Stanmore. Their bathrooms look just like this, although obviously theirs tend to be larger. It is all shiny and clean, from the lettering outside to the Arctic spread of blinding white paper tablecloths inside. If anybody has a