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US patient shows off face transplant

Dallas Wiens tells of joy at being able to taste lasagne after pioneering work by US surgeons A man who lost almost all his face when he touched an electric cable while painting a church three years ago showed off the results of America’s first full face transplant. Dallas Wiens, 25, speaking with difficulty at a press conference in Boston, said his daughter had told him he looked “handsome”. The work is not yet completed and there will be further surgery. He told reporters that one of his biggest impressions after having the transplant was being able to smell and taste lasagne prepared by the hospital. Wiens from Fort Worth, Texas, was blinded in the accident and the damage was too severe for doctors to restore his sight. He has been given a new nose, lips, nerves, skin and muscle. The press conference at Brigham and Women’s Hospital in Boston, Massachusetts was his first public appearance since the 15-hour operation was carried out in March. “It feels natural,” he said of his face. “It feels as if it has become my own.” Associated Press reported that the Pentagon had paid for the operation in the hope that the findings can help treat soldiers badly wounded in battle. The five transplants have cost a total of $3.4m (£2.1m). The world’s first full face transplant was carried out last year in Spain . United States Disability Health Ewen MacAskill guardian.co.uk

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Inquiry into migrants’ boat deaths

Human rights body demands inquiry into failure of European military units to save 61 migrants on boat fleeing Libya Europe’s paramount human rights body, the Council of Europe, has called for an inquiry into the deaths of 61 migrants in the Mediterranean, claiming an apparent failure of military units to rescue them marked a “dark day” for the continent. Mevlüt Çavusoglu, president of the council’s parliamentary assembly, demanded an “immediate and comprehensive inquiry” into the fate of the migrants’ boat which ran into trouble in late March en route to the Italian island of Lampedusa. Yesterday, the Guardian reported that the boat encountered a number of European military units including a helicopter and an aircraft carrier after losing fuel and drifting, but no rescue attempt was made and most of the 72 people on board eventually died of thirst and hunger. “If this grave accusation is true – that, despite the alarm being raised, and despite the fact that this boat, fleeing Libya, had been located by armed forces operating in the Mediterranean, no attempt was made to rescue the 72 passengers aboard, then it is a dark day for Europe as a whole,” Çavusoglu declared. “I call for an immediate and comprehensive inquiry into the circumstances of the deaths of the 61 people who perished, including babies, children and women who – one by one – died of starvation and thirst while Europe looked on,” he added. Çavusoglu’s intervention came as news emerged of another migrant boat which sank last Friday, according to the UN’s refugee agency. Up to 600 were on board the overcrowded vessel as it fled the Libyan capital, Tripoli. Witnesses who left on another boat shortly afterwards reported seeing remnants of the ship and the bodies of passengers in the sea. The International Organisation for Migration, which has staff on Lampedusa, said it had spoken to a Somali woman who lost her four-month-old baby in the tragedy, and said that it was unclear how many passengers had managed to swim to safety. According to testimony collected by UNHCR workers in Lampedusa, migrants on the second boat setting sail from Tripoli attempted to disembark when they saw the first boat sink, but were prevented from doing so by armed men. The UNHCR has insisted that more communication is needed between coastguards, military and commercial ships to minimise migrant deaths at sea. “We need to take heed of a situation that is very much evolving. We have to cooperate much more closely,” said a spokesperson, Laura Boldrini, adding that ships should not wait for a problem to arise before attempting to help migrant boats. “Rescue should be automatic, without waiting for the boat to break apart or the engine to stop running,” she said. Following the Guardian report into the plight of the migrant boat left to drift in the Mediterranean after suffering mechanical problems, Nato rejected suggestions that any of its units were involved in apparently ignoring the vessel. Officials pointed out that the Charles De Gaulle, a French aircraft carrier identified as having possibly encountered the boat, was not under direct Nato command at the time – although it was involved in the Nato-led operations in Libya. “Nato vessels are fully aware of their responsibilities with regard to international maritime law regarding safety of life at sea,” said a spokesman. French defence officials denied that any of their ships were involved. “The [Charles De Gaulle] was never less than 200km (160 miles) from the Libyan coast,” read a statement. “It is therefore not possible that it could have crossed the path of this drifting vessel which came from the Misrata region. If this was the case, it would have obviously come to the rescue of these people, in some way or another.” In 2010, the statement added, French naval vessels intercepted around 40 refugee boats and came to the assistance of more than 800 people. Campaigners believe that calls for European ships to be more active in assisting migrants are now becoming more urgent. “All of these migrant boats are incredibly overcrowded and these are desperate people,” said Professor Niels Frenzen, a refugee law specialist at the University of Southern California. “Given the hundreds of deaths we know about – and many more we probably aren’t aware of – any migrant boat that’s being observed right now is by definition a vessel that is in distress, and one which needs rescue.” Frenzen added that with Nato, the EU border agency Frontex, national coastguards and other unilateral forces all operating simultaneously in the Mediterranean, there was an “incredible mess of overlapping missions and jurisdictional confusion over the boundaries of different search and rescue regions”. “We’ve got this incredible concentration of ships and aircraft in that sea, many of which are there under security council resolution 1973 [which authorises military operations in Libya], the primary purpose of which is to protect civilian life,” he said. The UN refugee agency issued a warning for all vessels to keep an eye out for unseaworthy migrant boats in the Mediterranean. Refugees Libya Arab and Middle East unrest Middle East Africa Nato Jack Shenker guardian.co.uk

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Luis Suárez steals the show as Liverpool thrash Fulham

When Liverpool play like they did here on the banks of the Thames, the turmoil of the early season can resemble a trick of the mind. Was the club really languishing in 12th place in the Premier League when he took over in January? There are many differences between then and now, principally, in terms of confidence and a feel-good factor. But, maybe above all, there is Luis Suárez, the winter window capture from Ajax. It takes something to eclipse the achievement of a hat-trick from a team-mate and nothing ought to be taken away from Maxi Rodríguez, who was in ruthless mood and reached his personal landmark with a beauty from distance. But Suárez managed it. He was irrepressible, leading Fulham’s defence a merry dance and proving the architect behind this thumping victory, which fired the club’s hopes of finishing above Tottenham Hotspur, whom they entertain on Sunday, in the race for Europa League qualification. The transformation under Kenny Dalglish has been remarkable. He has now taken 33 points from a possible 48. Give the man a contract. But he is not the only Liverpool hero. This latest test of what Dalglish has called his “positive work in progress” seemed worthy of the billing. Fulham had turned Craven Cottage into something of a fortress and their defence, in particular, had been unyielding. It took Liverpool a little over a quarter of an hour to make a mockery of that statement. With three lightning strikes, they left Fulham dazed and confused. Mark Hughes, the manager, felt the stars encircle his head. Dalglish had started with Suárez as his lone front-man and although he did not score in the opening frenzy, he was central to much of what Liverpool did. With his slick touch and movement, not to mention his wonderful awareness, it was difficult to take your eyes off him. It was the Uruguayan who set up the first for Rodríguez, who is suddenly on a scoring streak to make Ian Rush proud. Played through by Lucas Leiva, Suárez raced away before cutting back a low cross, which squirted off Carlos Salcido and forced Mark Schwarzer into an improvised save with his feet. The ball reached only as far as Rodríguez, who dispatched it low into the far corner. Fulham chased shadows as Liverpool’s high-octane pressing game barely allowed them to draw breath. Suárez gave both Aaron Hughes and Brede Hangeland a torrid time, Lucas caught the eye with his incisive passing and Glen Johnson revelled in his attacking brief from right-back. Rodríguez scored his second of the night, and his sixth in three games, when Lucas’s ball over the top released Johnson, who was on-side dug out a fine cross to the far post where the Argentinian’s left-footed volley was true. Fulham’s misery was deepened on 16 minutes when Schwarzer, embarrassingly, allowed a tame shot from Dirk Kuyt to wriggle underneath him. Rodríguez has embraced the opportunity afforded to him by Andy Carroll’s injury – Carroll did not make the match-day squad here – while Kuyt is in the form of his life. Suárez and Rodríguez had further opportunities before Clint Dempsey connected sweetly with a volley for Fulham from Simon Davies’s corner. Johnson cleared it off the line. The home team had nothing but regrets at the interval. Fulham might have reasoned that they had nothing to lose in the second-half and Hughes went for the jugular in the attempt to restore pride, putting on Bobby Zamora up alongside Eidur Gudjohnsen and later Andy Johnson and asking Mousa Dembélé to maraud from the right. There was greater urgency about Fulham and with Liverpool, who lost Raul Meireles to hamstring trouble, content to protect what they had, Hughes’ team flickered. Dempsey whistled a drive just over the crossbar as Fulham pressed onto the front foot. Zamora made a real difference. A Fulham goal threatened to put a different complexion on what had previously been a mismatch and it arrived just before the hour. Martin Skrtel stood off Zamora and the striker’s lay-off invited Dembélé to curl low shot beyond Pepe Reina. The home crowd crackled to life and allowed themselves to dream outlandish dreams Craven Cottage rocked to a raucous beat but, with Fulham pressing for their second, Rodríguez deflated the mood with his hat-trick goal, a right-footed blast out of nothing, from 25 yards. Suárez got the goal that he deserved when he danced onto the substitute Jonjo Shelvey’s pass and around Schwarzer. Steve Sidwell’s rocket was the definition of consolation. Premier League Fulham Liverpool David Hytner guardian.co.uk

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Cable and Huhne clash on emissions

Vince Cable has refused to support new carbon reduction targets recommended by the Committee on Climate Change The business secretary, Vince Cable, has clashed with his Lib Dem cabinet colleague Chris Huhne by telling him he will not support new carbon reduction targets recommended by the government’s independent climate change advisory body. David Cameron will decide next week whether to accept the proposals of the Committee on Climate Change (CCC) for a fourth carbon budget, covering the years 2023 to 2027, championed by Huhne, the energy secretary. Three carbon budgets were set in 2008 but now the UK must agree a fourth as the government attempts to cut greenhouse gas emissions by 80% by 2050, compared with 1990 levels. In a letter leaked to the Guardian, Cable tells his party leader, Nick Clegg, and the chancellor, George Osborne, he is “unable to give clearance to the proposal as it stands” and calls for an urgent cabinet meeting. In his letter, dated 19 April, Cable says the proposed carbon budget is not “cost effective” and asks for a Treasury impact analysis to be made available to all involved in the decision. He writes: “Agreeing too aggressive a level risks burdening the UK economy, which would be detrimental to UK, undermining the UK’s competitiveness and our attractiveness as a place to do business. “I have a number of concerns about supporting the CCC’s recommended level at this time. “It is important that we strike the right balance between our pursuit to decarbonise the UK economy whilst ensuring that UK economic growth and employment is sustained.” His argument rests on a concern that Huhne’s plan relies on the securing of a cap on emissions trading across Europe that may not materialise. If this were not achieved, the UK would be left having to reduce carbon emissions unilaterally, which would risk putting industry at a disadvantage compared with outside competitors and “could lead to significant fiscal costs”. Instead, Cable argues for a weaker carbon target. “This level keeps us on course to meet our 2050 target and entails a steeper reduction in emissions than the previous government set for carbon budgets, which easily justifies our position as greenest government ever.” Insiders say the official evidence Cable points to in support of his compromise figure is a model that assumes no new investment in low-carbon energy sources until the second half of the 2020s. They are concerned Cable’s solution would therefore mean no new investment in the clean energy industry. Cable also proposes buying “carbon offsets” to help the UK meet its carbon targets in the 2020s, instead of cutting emissions and boosting green industries in the UK. This is opposed by some who believe the UK should change its behaviour rather than pay China or others to cut emissions elsewhere. The committee’s chief executive, David Kennedy, told the Guardian that a decision to embrace his committee’s fourth carbon budget would be “of crucial importance. It will be the key test of the government’s commitment to the low-carbon agenda.” In another leaked letter, dated 17 April, William Hague, the foreign secretary, says that he “strongly supports” Huhne. He writes: “I agree that we should not reject the fourth carbon budget recommended by the Committee on Climate Change … in order to retain public support for our climate policy at home we need to be able to point to similar effort abroad. “If our domestic resolve is seen to be weakening, we will lose traction elsewhere.” John Sauven, the executive director of Greenpeace, said: “The Liberal Democrats’ leadership keep saying they will learn from their kicking in last week’s election by putting clear water between their party and the Conservatives’ right wing on issues like protecting the environment. But this letter reveals that Vince Cable is trying to water down the measures aimed at protecting the environment and boosting a green economic recovery. “Cable’s proposals would cost more and slow the modernisation of the UK’s energy infrastructure so we’d lose out on new jobs and new export industries to countries like Germany and China, which are already blazing ahead of us. “Vince Cable needs to remember the honourable roots of the Lib Dem party and the strong voice they have been for protecting the environment and stopping climate change in recent years. Now is not the time for him to abandon the principles and values of the Liberal Democrat tradition in his party.” Vince Cable Carbon emissions Chris Huhne Carbon footprints Carbon capture and storage (CCS) Carbon offsetting Climate change Energy David Cameron Economic growth (GDP) Economics Allegra Stratton guardian.co.uk

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Richest students to pay for places at top universities

Universities shakeup could allow UK students to enrol in college of their choice as long as they pay vastly higher fees up front Teenagers from the wealthiest families would be able to pay for extra places at the most competitive universities under government proposals that could allow institutions to charge some British students the same high fees as overseas undergraduates. Candidates who take up the extra places would not be eligible for publicly funded loans to pay tuition fees or living costs, limiting this option to all but the most privileged households who could pay fees up front. Under the plans, the extra students may be charged as much as international undergraduates. At the most competitive universities, these students face fees ranging from £12,000 a year for arts subjects to £18,000 for sciences and more than £28,000 for medicine. Applicants would be required to meet the course entry requirements. The changes would give more students the chance to attend their first choice of university. At present, the government sets a quota of undergraduate places that English universities are allowed to offer each year. Employers and charities will also be encouraged to sponsor “off-quota” places under the plans to be outlined in a higher education white paper in the summer. Ministers argue that the creation of extra places will boost social mobility by freeing up more publicly subsidised places for undergraduates from poorer homes. But the proposals are likely to be criticised as a means for the wealthiest to “buy places” at a time when the government is to cut 10,000 publicly funded places. The universities minister, David Willetts, told the Guardian: “There are various important issues that need to be addressed around off-quota places, but I start from the view that an increase in the total number of higher education places could aid social mobility. “There would need to be arrangements to make sure any such system was fair and worked in the interests of students as well as institutions. But it is not clear what the benefit is of the current rules, which, for example, limit the ability of charities or social enterprises to sponsor students. “We are inviting ideas on the whole concept and we will listen very carefully to all the responses we receive.” The proposal is most likely to be taken up by highly selective institutions, which turn away thousands of qualified candidates a year. Oxford accepted slightly more than 3,000 British and EU undergraduates out of about 17,000 who applied for the current academic year. That demand is due to intensify as the latest application figures show the number of candidates for this autumn has risen by 2.1% to about 633,000 – another record high. The places may not be covered by access agreements, under which universities are required to outline how they will improve their proportion of students from state schools and deprived backgrounds. Under one version of the scheme, universities might operate a “needs-blind” admissions process, which assesses all candidates regardless of their ability to pay, but then offers places off-quota to candidates from the most privileged homes. The expansion of places will put greater pressure on less popular universities. Ministers have warned that undersubscribed institutions could have government-funded places withdrawn. In a speech last month, the business secretary, Vince Cable, said: “Institutions could very well find themselves in trouble if students can’t see value. In circumstances where places are unfilled, we might withdraw those places, and institutions should not assume they will easily get them back.” This is more likely to happen if more sought-after universities are free to expand in response to student demand. The government is also keen to encourage more corporate sponsorship of university places. The accountancy firm KPMG has unveiled a plan to pay fees for students at universities including Durham, in a training programme leading to an honours degree in accounting. These students also fall outside government restrictions on numbers, chiefly because they are on bespoke courses reserved for one firm’s employees. They do not need financial support as KPMG covers their fees and pays them a salary. The current version of the scheme is, in effect, an outsourcing of corporate training, but the range of education on offer could become more diverse in future. Asked if KPMG planned to extend the scheme to other degree subjects, Simon Haydn-Jones, an associate partner at the firm, said: “Yes we do, in due course – most likely by enabling students to take a range of subsidiary subjects such as geography in combination with an accountancy-related degree. “It is early days for our scheme, though, and we need to get it up and running first before we take any specific decisions on this.” The KPMG scheme begins at Durham and Exeter this autumn, and will be extended to Birmingham University next year. The firm ultimately expects to offer more than 400 places. A third option for expanding university places without cost to the public purse is by encouraging charities to sponsor students. At present, if a charity wished to fund a group of students from poor backgrounds, those places would have to come out of a university’s existing quota because of the risk that the students involved might need public support in future. The forthcoming white paper is expected to encourage charity sponsorship, possibly by enabling students to renounce entitlement to public support. Tuition fees David Willetts Education policy Higher education Oxbridge and elitism Access to university University of Cambridge University of Oxford Students University funding Jeevan Vasagar guardian.co.uk

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Howard Kurtz Uses Osama Death to Rerun Charge Media Was ‘Too Passive’ Toward Bush on Terror

On Sunday's Reliable Sources, CNN host Howard Kurtz used the killing of Osama bin Laden to revisit how the media were too deferential to the Bush administration. Kurtz questioned the validity of the terror alerts in the years following 9/11 and wondered if they were used for political gain. Kurtz, comparing the press coverage of the bin Laden assassination and the War on Terror, pondered if there was a “climate of fear” post-9/11 and asked “did the media contribute to that?” “Is it possible that the Bush administration, for political reasons, chose to play up the War on Terror in a way that the Obama administration has chosen not to?” Kurtz asked guest Brian Ross of ABC News. Ross didn't see the same conspiracy theory on the Bush administration, simply saying that they had a “different mindset” in the matter than Obama. (Video after the break.)

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Chloé names new creative director

Paris fashion label says the Birmingham-born former Pringle designer will replace fellow Briton Hannah MacGibbon in June The Paris fashion label Chloé, whose previous designers have included Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney, has announced that Clare Waight Keller, who was responsible for updating the Pringle of Scotland brand, will take over as creative director. She will replace fellow Briton Hannah MacGibbon, who has worked at the fashion house for ten years and has been creative director since 2008. Chloé, which is owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont, said MacGibbon was leaving to pursue “new projects”. Born in Birmingham, Waight Keller was appointed creative director of Pringle in 2005 and charged with turning it from a heritage label into a modern luxury brand. She resigned in March after a successful six-year run with the label, where she oversaw the menswear and womenswear collections and worked on collaborations with the likes of Tilda Swinton. She has established herself as a talent able to combine craft with modern shapes. With an MA in fashion knitwear from the Royal College of Art, she has worked at Gucci under Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein and begins work at Chloé on 1 June. Despite mixed reviews, MacGibbon had begun to turn Chloé’s image around with a mix of 1970s-influenced sportswear and minimalism, including wide trousers and silk blouses. In March 2010 MacGibbon, along with her former Chloé boss Phoebe Philo (currently head of design at Céline) and McCartney, were widely celebrated for pioneering an influential new look: feminine minimalism. MacGibbon’s tenure was seen as a marked improvement on the seasons by the Swedish designer Paulo Melim Andersson, who left after Philo in 2006. But the label, despite a recent successful fragrance launch, has failed to replicate the success of the Philo years, which included stellar sales and hits such as 2002′s Paddington bag. Chloé’s chief executive, Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye, said MacGibbon’s “considerable talents will be missed”. In a short statement MacGibbon added: “I will always have a deep affection for Chloé and am very grateful to the company for having given me this opportunity.” During the Paris autumn/winter womenswear shows in March, rumours circulated that the label was not planning to renew the designer’s contract, and had even interviewed replacement designers. As yet no one has claimed the top job at Christian Dior after John Galliano was fired over his alleged racist and antisemitic outbursts. Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen, the designer of Kate Middleton’s wedding dress, is the latest designer thought to be in the frame. Balmain has also recently replaced its head designer. Fashion Fashion designers France Europe Simon Chilvers guardian.co.uk

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Chloé names new creative director

Paris fashion label says the Birmingham-born former Pringle designer will replace fellow Briton Hannah MacGibbon in June The Paris fashion label Chloé, whose previous designers have included Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney, has announced that Clare Waight Keller, who was responsible for updating the Pringle of Scotland brand, will take over as creative director. She will replace fellow Briton Hannah MacGibbon, who has worked at the fashion house for ten years and has been creative director since 2008. Chloé, which is owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont, said MacGibbon was leaving to pursue “new projects”. Born in Birmingham, Waight Keller was appointed creative director of Pringle in 2005 and charged with turning it from a heritage label into a modern luxury brand. She resigned in March after a successful six-year run with the label, where she oversaw the menswear and womenswear collections and worked on collaborations with the likes of Tilda Swinton. She has established herself as a talent able to combine craft with modern shapes. With an MA in fashion knitwear from the Royal College of Art, she has worked at Gucci under Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein and begins work at Chloé on 1 June. Despite mixed reviews, MacGibbon had begun to turn Chloé’s image around with a mix of 1970s-influenced sportswear and minimalism, including wide trousers and silk blouses. In March 2010 MacGibbon, along with her former Chloé boss Phoebe Philo (currently head of design at Céline) and McCartney, were widely celebrated for pioneering an influential new look: feminine minimalism. MacGibbon’s tenure was seen as a marked improvement on the seasons by the Swedish designer Paulo Melim Andersson, who left after Philo in 2006. But the label, despite a recent successful fragrance launch, has failed to replicate the success of the Philo years, which included stellar sales and hits such as 2002′s Paddington bag. Chloé’s chief executive, Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye, said MacGibbon’s “considerable talents will be missed”. In a short statement MacGibbon added: “I will always have a deep affection for Chloé and am very grateful to the company for having given me this opportunity.” During the Paris autumn/winter womenswear shows in March, rumours circulated that the label was not planning to renew the designer’s contract, and had even interviewed replacement designers. As yet no one has claimed the top job at Christian Dior after John Galliano was fired over his alleged racist and antisemitic outbursts. Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen, the designer of Kate Middleton’s wedding dress, is the latest designer thought to be in the frame. Balmain has also recently replaced its head designer. Fashion Fashion designers France Europe Simon Chilvers guardian.co.uk

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Chloé names new creative director

Paris fashion label says the Birmingham-born former Pringle designer will replace fellow Briton Hannah MacGibbon in June The Paris fashion label Chloé, whose previous designers have included Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney, has announced that Clare Waight Keller, who was responsible for updating the Pringle of Scotland brand, will take over as creative director. She will replace fellow Briton Hannah MacGibbon, who has worked at the fashion house for ten years and has been creative director since 2008. Chloé, which is owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont, said MacGibbon was leaving to pursue “new projects”. Born in Birmingham, Waight Keller was appointed creative director of Pringle in 2005 and charged with turning it from a heritage label into a modern luxury brand. She resigned in March after a successful six-year run with the label, where she oversaw the menswear and womenswear collections and worked on collaborations with the likes of Tilda Swinton. She has established herself as a talent able to combine craft with modern shapes. With an MA in fashion knitwear from the Royal College of Art, she has worked at Gucci under Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein and begins work at Chloé on 1 June. Despite mixed reviews, MacGibbon had begun to turn Chloé’s image around with a mix of 1970s-influenced sportswear and minimalism, including wide trousers and silk blouses. In March 2010 MacGibbon, along with her former Chloé boss Phoebe Philo (currently head of design at Céline) and McCartney, were widely celebrated for pioneering an influential new look: feminine minimalism. MacGibbon’s tenure was seen as a marked improvement on the seasons by the Swedish designer Paulo Melim Andersson, who left after Philo in 2006. But the label, despite a recent successful fragrance launch, has failed to replicate the success of the Philo years, which included stellar sales and hits such as 2002′s Paddington bag. Chloé’s chief executive, Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye, said MacGibbon’s “considerable talents will be missed”. In a short statement MacGibbon added: “I will always have a deep affection for Chloé and am very grateful to the company for having given me this opportunity.” During the Paris autumn/winter womenswear shows in March, rumours circulated that the label was not planning to renew the designer’s contract, and had even interviewed replacement designers. As yet no one has claimed the top job at Christian Dior after John Galliano was fired over his alleged racist and antisemitic outbursts. Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen, the designer of Kate Middleton’s wedding dress, is the latest designer thought to be in the frame. Balmain has also recently replaced its head designer. Fashion Fashion designers France Europe Simon Chilvers guardian.co.uk

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Chloé names new creative director

Paris fashion label says the Birmingham-born former Pringle designer will replace fellow Briton Hannah MacGibbon in June The Paris fashion label Chloé, whose previous designers have included Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney, has announced that Clare Waight Keller, who was responsible for updating the Pringle of Scotland brand, will take over as creative director. She will replace fellow Briton Hannah MacGibbon, who has worked at the fashion house for ten years and has been creative director since 2008. Chloé, which is owned by Compagnie Financière Richemont, said MacGibbon was leaving to pursue “new projects”. Born in Birmingham, Waight Keller was appointed creative director of Pringle in 2005 and charged with turning it from a heritage label into a modern luxury brand. She resigned in March after a successful six-year run with the label, where she oversaw the menswear and womenswear collections and worked on collaborations with the likes of Tilda Swinton. She has established herself as a talent able to combine craft with modern shapes. With an MA in fashion knitwear from the Royal College of Art, she has worked at Gucci under Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein and begins work at Chloé on 1 June. Despite mixed reviews, MacGibbon had begun to turn Chloé’s image around with a mix of 1970s-influenced sportswear and minimalism, including wide trousers and silk blouses. In March 2010 MacGibbon, along with her former Chloé boss Phoebe Philo (currently head of design at Céline) and McCartney, were widely celebrated for pioneering an influential new look: feminine minimalism. MacGibbon’s tenure was seen as a marked improvement on the seasons by the Swedish designer Paulo Melim Andersson, who left after Philo in 2006. But the label, despite a recent successful fragrance launch, has failed to replicate the success of the Philo years, which included stellar sales and hits such as 2002′s Paddington bag. Chloé’s chief executive, Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye, said MacGibbon’s “considerable talents will be missed”. In a short statement MacGibbon added: “I will always have a deep affection for Chloé and am very grateful to the company for having given me this opportunity.” During the Paris autumn/winter womenswear shows in March, rumours circulated that the label was not planning to renew the designer’s contract, and had even interviewed replacement designers. As yet no one has claimed the top job at Christian Dior after John Galliano was fired over his alleged racist and antisemitic outbursts. Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen, the designer of Kate Middleton’s wedding dress, is the latest designer thought to be in the frame. Balmain has also recently replaced its head designer. Fashion Fashion designers France Europe Simon Chilvers guardian.co.uk

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